We got an email from George Z. suggesting that we take the Athens tram to a beachside suburb and get some keftedes (Greek meatballs) at a place called, appropriately enough, George’s Steakhouse. We took the hour ride out with some dapper older gentlemen and watched Athens pass by in the windows. We arrived, threw some rocks into the sea and then started heading towards town, all the time hearing some distant choral chanting. I assumed it was a mosque, calling the evening prayer. I was wrong. I have since learned later that Greece is 97% Greek Orthodox. Now, this may not be an entirely accurate number because I got it off the internet but it was definitely not a mosque calling the faithful to prayer. Turns out that it was a special night for the main church in Glyfada and the service was on loudspeakers. The church was decked out, complete with long line of the parishioners trying to get in the door. There was a small parade around the main square let by a band, a bunch of teenage boys in what looked like Boy Scout uniforms, women in traditional dress and 30 priests in their best vestments carrying a small icon. At this religious parade, it was clear that you were not supposed to have fun. No smiles on the faces of the spectators or the people parading. This was not a happy icon and as it passed, everyone genuflected several times. But later, after the parade there were fireworks and there was a huge streetfair that did not look like it was anywhere near stopping even when we headed back to Athens around 10:30. So a mixed message here. Have fun everywhere else, except in church. And on the tram ride back – the same dapper gentlemen who rode out with us. It was a great way to end our time in Athens. Thanks George!
We arrived in Palermo on Saturday and it is a lot bigger than I thought it would be. 1½ million people. We arrived in the rain and it rained all day Sunday which seems only fitting since the weather has been so good to us so far. Good thing, as we lost our bottle of sunscreen during the last round of security heading out from Athens. The Heraklion/Athens Security folks – not so happy. “Put your luggage here, now take it back down, now carry it over here, now recite the Greek national anthem, now… “ You get the picture. They took our sunscreen away as if they were thinking, “I am taking this away from you, do you care? You should care! I am taking this away from you!”
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| The sanctuary at Capella Paletina |
On Sunday we awoke to dozens of rose vendors on the streets. I mean dozens of them, with gorgeous, fragrant roses. Everyone we saw had a half dozen in their hand. Then we walked through the rain to view then unbelievable mosaics at the Capella Paletina, a Norman palace (William the Conqueror’s half brother was King of Sicily). They looked as if they were created yesterday. Gorgeous biblical scenes that even the boys could follow with their limited biblical knowledge - Adam and Eve, Noah's Ark etc... Sylvia, we thought of you. This is definitely a must-see for you.
Then we caught a soccer game with the cousin of our friend Guido, also named Guido. Palermo lost 3- 1 against Verona but apparently they were saving all their best players for the Tim Cup that they are playing next weekend in Rome against Inter Milan. If they play like they did on Sunday they are going to get slaughtered. Plus, their team colors are pink and black. Only in Italy could you get away with that.
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